Welt Pocket - Take 1

After calling for help in an earlier post and wanting to throw my fabric down after what seemed like hours of youtube tutorials I used an awesome tutorial by Melanie on Seamstress: Poppykettle on welt pockets. I am proud to say after what seemed like hours I have made my first welt pocket. Check that one off the list :) I think I did it correctly. But I do have some questions! (Also, seeing this was only a rough-draft I used white thread. I hope this doesn't distract you!)

1. How do you make sure your welt rectangle is straight? I am drafting it so I have no pattern.
2. How do you make it so it does not looked "pulled"? I am assuming it is because the stiching lines when I first started were not perfectly even.
2a. How do I ensure my stitch lines are even? My machine back-stitches kinda funky. Any hints?
3. The welt seems crooked. Why??
4. Any other hints/helpful tricks?

A few first times.

I am doing a few "firsts" on my next project.

First time I am:
1. Sewing for someone else. Even though it's my soon to be.
2. Making men's wear. I kinda-sorta started a mans suit once, but that went terribly wrong. (see other post lol) and now this said project is in a pile under my sewing table.
3. Making a welt pocket. It's Rich's favorite type of pocket. So instead of doing the traditional "slap on" (that's what he calls it) pocket I am going to try to make a welt pocket.
4. Making a shirt in general. In all my years sewing I have never made a shirt. Lots of dresses and skirts, never a shirt.
5. Attaching more than 2 buttons that have to adhere to a certain pattern. I am worried about this one! Rich is excited he gets to pick from my vintage button collection. He is so picky I hope he can actually find something he likes, but at the same time I don't want him to take my faves. I know, I am greedy!

I am using a thrift store pattern find ($0.70) simplicity 5581, view A. (see picture) It's a modern pattern but I may shorten it so he can wear it with high waisted pants. I am using some thrifted cotton blend fabric I found for $5 for the bolt. I figured if the shirt looks like a 5 year old did it I wouldn't be too mad. I only would have waisted thread and time.

Stay tuned to see if I swear off sewing men's wear!

Mens Suit

I am making the simplicity retro 8879



This is my first mans anything and I am about ready to give up on it. The instructions on how to make the double lapel are dismal and the ease stitching matching is horrible in it. It looks like a gathered sleeve more so than a mans suit.

I have already invested so much time on this project and want it to just be done with. I am in the muslin stage and I am thinking I do not even want to cut the suit fabric.

Any little bit will help. OH! And the sizing is ridiculous. Any help on sizing a mans suit would be great because apparently you can't just go off the mans actual measurements.

I hate, no loath, how the left side looks. This is on my female double so ignore the chest lol The odd lapels. I drew on the suit where I think it should cut in on the collar

The horrible left sleeve "gathers" and another lapel shot...